Manioc flour produced in Acre state boasts geographical indication tag
The city of Cruzeiro do Sul, in the state of Acre, northern Brazil, near the national border with Peru, had rubber extraction as its main economic activity until the beginning of the 20th century. Today, income is brought to local communities by manioc flour. Since 2017, the flour of Cruzeiro do Sul has boasted a geographical indication tag, which recognizes the quality and tradition of a product from specific environmental conditions and a local method of production.
The blend of indigenous manioc culture and the habits of people who migrated to the North from the Northeast of the country, the flour has been conquering markets inside and outside Brazil. In partnership with the Support Service for Micro and Small Businesses (Sebrae), a team from TV Brasil visited the region in an attempt to learn about its production, from the planting of manioc to its sale at supermarkets and grocery stores.
“The indigenous people played a crucial role in passing on their ancestral knowledge to the white man. They passed on their cultural way of making flour, preserved until today,” historian Narcélio Generoso said.
Cruzeiro do Sul is home to some 90 thousand people and has 12 thousand flour mills in operation. Maria José Maciel is the head of the cooperative organizing production. “Things were difficult before the geographical indication tag, as anyone could use the name ‘Flour from Cruzeiro do Sul.’ Today, however, we, from Central do Juruá, are the only ones allowed to do it. The tag started to open doors for us,” he noted.
The cooperative optimizes manufacture, resulting in a better final price and quality of life to producers. The craft is passed down from generation to generation, as happened to Francisco da Silva Maciel, who learned to make flour from his father.
“I am proud to be a producer. That’s what my father taught me; that’s his legacy to us. I learned to make flour and I bring this knowledge with me today,” said Maciel, as he showed in detail how the artisanal process of dyeing flour is carried out at the cooperative. The yellowish hue of the bean, obtained through saffron, suits the taste of customers, and Maciel describes the process as an art form.
The Cruzeiro do Sul star has gained a special place of its own in cuisine. Flour has become part and parcel with the daily eating habits of the people of Acre, but chef Jairé Cunha incorporates the ingredient into unusual dishes—like sushi.
Local manufacturers believe the beauties of the forest, the indigenous traditions, and their cooking also have the potential to boost tourism.
“We are a destination packed with surprises. The outside view is still very much focused on the forests—which are indeed our flagship. But people are surprised by what they find here. You have to come with an open heart, because you’ll be surprised, in a good way,” says Thaly Figueiredo, a content producer who works to step up regional tourism by spreading the word about the state’s attractions and destinations on social media.
